La Befana near Shimokitazawa is easier to find and easier on the wallet. The wood-fired oven is openly on display, so customers can see the apparatus responsible for impeccably browning their margherita pizzas.
On that particular pie, wide circles of mozzarella complement a tangy tomato base, tempered with fine strips of basil and the comfort of a strong, crisp slice of dough. But the real star here is the prosciutto salad, featuring amazingly light ham on crisp lettuce, brushed with a balsamic vinaigrette.
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